Alright guysbr
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We are moving into a new house next month and i have 3 rooms to choose from for my studio. I’m looking at getting it acoustically treated (nothing too expensive) and was hoping to get some recommendations on kits to look at. The only thing is, i can’t do any drilling as the house is rented, and the kits i have seen so far include mounting brackets that need to be drilled into the wall.br
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What other options are there for installing these kits?br
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Cheers
Hello mate.br
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I found a great article on this that i put into practice for my acoustic treatment - as i had the same problem as you, whereby i was renting and could not drill any holes into the walls of the property.br
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This is what i would recommend, as it worked brilliantly for me:br
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Get your acoustic foam, and then go to BQ or a hardware store, and buy some small and thin strips of very light wood, such as balsa would - just something really thin and light. br
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Then also buy some small hooks that attach to your wall where they have a sticky pad, and then you stick them on the wall, and then pull away a strip that create like a permanent seal between the hook and the sticky pad that it attaches to. You wouldn’t think that they would stick that well, but trust me, they are brilliant products and once you pull away the tab, they are really, really sticky and because the acoustic foam is so light, there’s no danger of the hooks coming away from the wall.br
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Then what you do is cut the strips of wood so they are the same width as the acoustic foam, and glue them to the very top of the foam. Then you can simply hook the bottom edge of the wood strip over the end of the hooks, to secure them on the wall. I used two hooks for each piece of foam, just one either side at the top.br
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The great thing is that because the hooks are small and the wood is so thin, the foam stays pretty flush to the wall, and if you do it right, you can’t really see the hooks near the top of the foam as they are pretty much hidden behind the foam, so it looks good as you can’t really see the hooks.br
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This worked wonders for me. The only thing is that this is only really going to work for mid to high frequency absorders, i never really found a solution for attaching the much bulkier and heavier low-frequency bass absortion foam into the corner of the room.br
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I think for that you might have to get something free-standing - not sure you’d be able to attach that kind of foam to the walls?br
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These are the hooks that i am referring to:br
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They worked a treat!
Cheers for the info mate will definitely look into that, nice idea!br
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How thick were the panels that you used?
I just got the basic ones that are about 4 inches deep i think.br
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But the panels are so light, that even if you get thicker ones, i’m sure this will still work fine.
Cheers
And does anyone have any tips for actually sound proofing the room? We recently had a baby so i want to be able to get a decent volume level without waking him (or the trouble strife!)
Well i read a bit about sound-proofing when i was reading up for my other room treatments, and as far as i know, there’s not much you can really do about keeping the sound in the room without knocking down or installing extra walls etc.br
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But other people might know different?
Hey matey!br
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Yeah a room within a room kind of thing. The main issue is sound escaping from the door, the walls are solid and thick. I guess i could try putting a spare mattress up against the door?
I think the best thing that i have heard about is putting a curtain rail up and drawing a very thick curtain across the door when you want to try and keep the sound in.br
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Failing that - duvets work really well. I got some cheap portable clothes rails in my old place, and then bought some cheap duvets and draped them over the clothes rails and stuck them in the corners (i used these as make-shift bass traps!).br
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Worked a treat - although it looked pretty ridiculous!!!
If you’re going for the room within a room, the best option for the door is just installing a second door.nbsp; Since you’ll have a double door you need to have the space to open that door towards the inside (or a significantly smaller door so it can turn open within the opening of the outer door).nbsp; That way the whole volume of the room is detached fromnbsp;the surrounding construction elements.nbsp; Also, you can modify this second door to avoid leakage without having to modify your proprietors door.
where are you guys looking to purchase your kits at? I am thinking about doing this for my studio in the next couple weeks. I really like the hanging hook idea because it sounds easier to move… any more ideas on this topic? I will post more stuff as I do more research
[quote]davidmclean (18/06/2013)[hr]I think the best thing that i have heard about is putting a curtain rail up and drawing a very thick curtain across the door when you want to try and keep the sound in.[/quote]br
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A curtain wont do much to keep bass from escaping… you would need something much more substantial.
Project Gamble - you can get the hooks from pretty much any decent hardware store i think - they are the Command Adhesive ones:br
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http://www.command.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/NACommand/Command/br
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As for the foam - i bought mine from Studiospares here in the UK, seems like good stuff at good prices, but again you can get decent foam from any good quality music production store.
[quote]davidmclean (24/06/2013)[hr]Project Gamble - you can get the hooks from pretty much any decent hardware store i think - they are the Command Adhesive ones:br
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http://www.command.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/NACommand/Command/br
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As for the foam - i bought mine from Studiospares here in the UK, seems like good stuff at good prices, but again you can get decent foam from any good quality music production store.[/quote]br
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try and get your foam from a factory that cut to order for furniture makers. (side note I use to work in one)
make sure its the same type and same density… not all foam is the same. i got soem from a packing company before and it was rubbish.
[quote]phil johnston (24/06/2013)[hr]make sure its the same type and same density… not all foam is the same. i got soem from a packing company before and it was rubbish.[/quote]br
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what density would be best, soft to hard, hard or very hard?
im not sure exactly what is used. i think it needs a certain structure too.br
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This stuff: [url=http://www.knaufinsulation.co.uk/en-gb/products/glass-mineral-wool-slabs/earthwool-universal-slab-%28glass%29.aspx#axzz2XA4WPO4n]Glass Mineral Wool Insulation Slabs | Knauf Insulation
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Is Equivalent to OC703 which is used in most pro studio builds for absorbers etc.br
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Its much better than foam… the slabs are ridged so you can just cover them with material and mount them directly if you are careful.
[quote]phil johnston (24/06/2013)[hr]BRIs Equivalent to OC703 which is used in most pro studio builds for absorbers etc.BRBRIts much better than foam… the slabs are ridged so you can just cover them with material and mount them directly if you are careful.[/quote]PPhil is right stay away from foam if you want it done right. I have my studio decked out withnbsp;a nice auralex(foam) package and I still have freq issues!!/PPabout to get my whole studio changed to high end accoustic insulation. as with every thing in this industry you live and learn. and yes owens corning 703 is considered industry standard in accoustic insulation and also very pricey! 
if you’re in the US i would check these guys out:/PPA href="Acoustic Insulation Materials - Acoustimac.com"http://www.acoustimac.com/acoustic-insulation-materials//A